On the grounds of the Army Museum in Hanoi is the usual collection of war booty, equipment and exhibits. There’s also a coffee shop that serves light meals and all sorts of coffee. It’s very popular with young Hanoians, more popular than this museum memorializing “the American war”.

So there’s a gaggle of girls having green tea smoothies with their motorbikes parked nearby in the shadow of a MIG-21. That’s the peace dividend.

