In Defense of Panda Express

Yes, I get that Panda Express is not genuine “Chinese food”.  Even though the roots of this chain would count as genuine “Chinese food”.  And it tastes pretty good.   It fills a niche, along with Starbucks (coffee) and McDonald’s (hamburgers and breakfast) for making Chinese-American food available all over the US, cooked to a standard and satisfying the craving for chow mein with soy sauce and Orange Chicken (which is a very guilty pleasure).  Let’s face it, getting different kinds of Chinese food is easier in the big cities than it is, say in Omaha or Des Moines.  But those cities have Panda Expresses there so it satisfies the craving, at least temporarily.

And for each meal at Panda Express (usually at malls and airports), I have a renewed appreciation for Chinese food done properly.  Beef chow fun and wontonmein at Hing Lung (San Bruno), Xiaolongbao at almost any Din Tai Fung.  Yum Cha at Dragon Beaux.  Mabo tofu and Kung Pao Chicken at a good Hunan place.  Despite the food snobs saying otherwise, Panda Express does serve a purpose in the greater cause of Chinese food.  And for the food snobs, you can always order the Wagyu truffle Hor Fun at Lokkee.

The term “Chinese food” itself is misleading.  It can refer to Cantonese, Shanghainese, Hunan, Szechwan, dim sum, wontonmein, cha chaan teng and lots more styles I’ve probably missed.  It’s all good stuff.  I think we should put Panda Express in that same category.

Ippudo Story San Francisco (Lost in Translation)

No Scarlett Johansson here (bummer).  Just two ramen fans that were excited to welcome San Francisco into the big league of ramen towns.  San Francisco has an Ippudo.  Finally! No more queueing at Mensho for hours in the TL with bums.  We could now queue in a wind tunnel off of Market Street! Despite being forewarned about the broth being dumbed down (at Ippudo Berkeley, which opened nine months earlier),  we braved downtown, found a parking space and crossed Market Street for a bowl.  A very expensive bowl.

Yes.  That’s $82 (after tip) for dinner for two.  A beer, a bun, a bowl and some ice cream.  Keep in mind that the same bowl in Tokyo is half the price (along with the beer) in what gaijin call “the most expensive city” in the world.  I would be willing to excuse this as “the price of doing business” in San Francisco, except the broth here tasted like they phoned it in.  It’s technically tonkotsu, but set at 5 instead of 11.  The best way to describe my disappointment is to say that the broth here has been Lost in Translation.  It isn’t as “fierce” as it should be.  Also, no sides of garlic and ginger as the other Ippudos in Asia have.

They did get some things right.  The cha siu was tender and the broth could have been a smidge hotter (in order to keep the noodles hot).  And Ippudo is probably the only place in San Francisco that can actually do the soft boiled ramen egg properly.  Delish!

Because of this, it’s technically an “Ippudo”.  The ramen was bowled properly, the noodles had some snap.  The flavors are there, just not enough of it.  I really wanted to love this place; to be able to say that it’s a match for Ippudo’s Tokyo and Singapore locations (I know these best) and everyone should brave the line and the price for a bowl of Akamaru Modern because THIS is what ramen is supposed to be like.  Instead, I’d recommend this as a starter Ippudo.  Go here and appreciate it for what it is.  A decent, but VERY overpriced bowl (because of the local conditions that restaurants in San Francisco have to operate in, not because of Panda Express greed).  Then book a flight to Tokyo, Hong Kong, Singapore or Shanghai and have a bowl over there.  That’s how it’s supposed to taste.  And you’ll save some money too.

Ippudo SF
18 Yerba Buena Lane
San Francisco, CA 94103

Your Hong Kong cuisine fix in Singapore

Street sign for Orchard Road in Singapore.

Image via Wikipedia

Once again, I’m out here in Singapore getting over my jet lag and preparing for adventures further afield.  Since my arrival on Tuesday, it’s been a non-stop blur of seeing friends, making new ones, numerous makan sessions and a civilized evening at a hidden Cigar Club that involved, yes, eating some home cooked Singapore food on account that it was Hari Raya Haji on Wednesday. 

Unlike my usual trips to Asia, this time I will not be stopping off in Hong Kong.  However, the craving still hits for proper Hong Kong cuisine: yum cha and won ton noodles.  Thankfully, both can be (temporarily) sated during my time here in Singapore. 

I went to Hua Ting for yum cha.  Hua Ting is inside the Orchard Hotel, just where the famous street begins.  It is, probably, the fanciest restaurant I have been to in Singapore (I usually visit hawker stands and what not).  When I was there, the restaurant was configured with large tables for the family lunches that occur on public holidays. 

They’re known for their yum cha but surprisingly, the menu had less items on it than a typical place would have.  It was a case of quality, not quanitity as the go-to standards were pretty good. 

Again, it IS a “nice” place so it’s appropriate for family meals, taking the inlaws out or a semi-serious date with someone interesting.  The best part, according to my friend who lives here, is that the total price is very reasonable.  No tacky add on charges for a napkin or tea, which makes this a rarity in Singapore indeed. 

Hua Ting Restaurant at the Orchard Hotel
442 Orchard Road,
238879

Singapore
+65 6739 6666


The other craving that hits when I’m afield is the simple bowl of won ton noodles, Hong Kong style.  That means: prawn won tons, thin house made egg noodles and the light broth made from fish. Such a simple dish that is very easy to mess up.  See what passes for “won ton noodles” in different parts of the US for example.  Most places use thicker store bought noodles that taste like a used dishwashing sponge.  The won tons usually have some kind of meat inside instead of prawns and the broth is MSG flavored instead of fish flavored.  Bleagh!

Singapore has its version of wantan mee; it’s served dry on a plate with meat won tons, generous slices of chow siu and has a dipping soup for the noodles.  It’s very good when you visit the right stall and the fact that the main dish is dry invites generous application of chilli sauce and raw chillis.  It’s hard to get the condiments right if they’re going into soup. 

So when the word hit the internet that an executive chef, formerly of Mak’s Noodle fame took over Noodle Place at Centrepoint, the mission became clear; to see if this place can satisfy the urge without having to fly three hours north and another 40 minutes on the train. 

In a word, a conditional “yes”.   The bowl was the right size and the noodles to won ton ratio was bang on.  The broth was very good, having more of the fish essence it should have.  The won tons themselves were a bit smaller than I’m used to and part of me was wondering if they used frozen prawns (they just seemed so uniformly small).  The noodles had the proper “snap” and had an alkali finish to them.  Seems house made to me!

Noodle Place is hidden in the Centrepoint mall on Orchard Road.  I say “hidden” because it’s address makes you think it’s on the main floor, but it’s actually hidden downstairs, in the very back of the mall past the Cold Storage and then up the escalator to an annex with a handful of sit down casual restaurants.  There were no maps alongside the directories and the people I asked were completely blur.  Hey Centrepoint!  How about a MAP??

Noodle Place
176 Orchard Road
01-53/56 The Centrepoint
Singapore 238843
+65 6733-3171

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Continue reading “Your Hong Kong cuisine fix in Singapore”

Din Tai Fung Xintandi!

Din Tai Fung lunch by Richard Moross in Singapore

Image via Wikipedia

Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese restaurant chain that’s known for its xiaolongbao (soup dumplings).  They’re maybe a step or two away from being perfect, depending on which location you visit. 

The great thing is that they’re all over Asia so if you’re in Singapore, Hong Kong, Tokyo,
Malaysia, Indonesia, mainland China, Australia or even Taiwan, you’re not far from xiaolongbao goodness.  If you live in the USA however, you’re very far from xiaolongbao goodness as there’s only one location outside of Los Angeles and that location has mixed reviews.  

Within Asia, all the locations are at an equally high standard.  Some locations are more equal than others.  For example, the Tsimshatsui location is considered one of the flagships because of its Michelin Star and its larger, more varied menu.  Because of its location and its accolades, it’s also one of the more expensive locations.  Compared to this, the Xintandi location seemed like a bargain even though it was in an expensive part of Shanghai and in spite of the inequality of the exchange rate (which will hopefully change in about a year).  

The appeal of Din Tai Fung is not necessarily the special-ness of the menu (aside from the xiaolongbao, whose equal I cannot find in my half of the world) but that the menu is prepared to the highest standard and that the service in the restaurant is also top tier.  That’s not saying much, if you were to mention the Tokyo or Singapore locations; service SHOULD be good.  But to get that caliber of service on the mainland or even in Hong Kong is a special thing.  When you visit a Din Tai Fung (in Asia), you will get xiaolongbao hand folded 23 times and it will be delivered to your table scalding hot.  Remember to scoop it out with your soup spoon and nibble the side like a beaver so that the soup pours out of the dumpling into your spoon. Sip then gulp.  Failure to follow these guidelines will probably lead to a burnt mouth.  The beef noodle soup will be, erm, beefy and satisfying.  The noodles will had that neat al dente snap.  The veggies will be locally sourced and fresh.  And although it won’t be a lomantic night out, it probably would qualify as a FUN night out.  Lomance is handled by the alleyways and bars of Xintandi…

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Hawker’s Noodle Soup, Taiwan style

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Fried Pork chop over aforementioned noodles

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DTF style siu mai

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The classic xiaolongbao with 23 folds apiece. 

We also had some soup and greens but at some point, you have to stop taking pictures and start eating because all the food is disappearing.  No more photos.  Just go there!

上海市卢湾
区兴业路123弄
2/F, South Block, Xintiandi Mall, Shanghai (metro: South Huangpi Lu)
+86 21
6385 8378
()

http://www.dintaifung.com.cn

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FIG Santa Monica and a 2 hour grilled cheese

On a recent “suicide run” to LA (despite my vow a few years back not to do them ever again), I had a three hour brunch at FIG in Santa Monica.
But first, what exactly is a “suicide run”? A “suicide run” is when you drive to LA from SF when the return is 3 days or less. Having not done these in a few years, I was amazed to find that the Tejon Ranch near Grapevine had been developed and even has an In & Out, thus bringing the amount of restaurants on the 5 to two! Exciting if you’re a fan of driving. And I&O. Despite the suicide run character of this road trip, I’ve not taken the MX5 out for a proper shakedown cruise. I took the MX5 there on the 5 and back on the 101 and learned that Kumho Ecsta tires are noisy and new struts are in order. But never mind the logistics of driving…
So I met up with a friend and she drove me to FIG at the Fairmont Hotel in Santa Monica. It’s basically American cuisine in nice surroundings. This was the first time there for both of us. It was a fun brunch; I think I spent more time laughing and chatting than eating. It took me two hours to eat a grilled cheese sandwich and another hour to have a couple of drinks in the Southern California sunshine with wonderful company.
I need more meals like this.
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Signage is excellent; you definitely know where you are.
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Sea salt. Looks good and tastes good too.
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When you’re seated, they serve you arugula butter with warm mini baguettes.
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This is how a 2 hour grilled gueyre cheese sandwich looks like
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The aftermath, a half finished pasta-less lasagna, fries and the second half of a grilled cheese. And someone’s pair of Ray-Ban aviators…
Great service and validated parking at the Fairmont Hotel. Worth a visit then a stroll afterwards.
FIG
101 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90401-1106
(310) 576-7777
http://www.figsantamonica.com

One day turn to LAX and Phillipe’s

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Mmmmmacaroni salad!
Conversation over Ping! for iPhone

Pally: “Hey, when are you coming down to LA? I’ve got some friends I’d like you to meet…”

Me: “As soon as I get some time, I’ll swing down for a few days. Think the weather will behave?”
That initial chat was over a month ago. Despite my best laid plans (which involved driving my MX5 down the coast and visiting friends along the way), I’ve not been able to make the drive to LA. I’ve been just plain busy! Since I returned to SF from Japan, the weather has been cold and rainy and issues have come up with the money pit that required me to go “out there” to fix things. I don’t like being flaky (cuz I absolutely LOATHE it when people are flaky with me) so when I found a SFO-LAX same day turn flight on UA for US$100, I went for it. I figure it’s been a long time since I’ve been to LA strictly to putter. Longer still since I had a french dip sandwich from the place that invented the yummy thing. And since I was arriving around lunch time, I figured that this was a sign.
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Nah, THIS is a sign!
Phillipe’s is an 91 year old Los Angeles institution; basically a deli that makes short orders (and sells cuppa coffees for 9 cents) and french dipped sandwiches with your choice of meat. It doesn’t sound like much. A sandwich (with your choice of meat and cheese) dipped whole into au jus. But like alchemy, the ingredients themselves aren’t that fantastical; combine everything and it’s wonderous!! There’s also hot spicy mustard at all the tables for that added kick. Bam.
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I arrived at the restaurant just after 1300 and parked in the free parking lot. A very fast 6 minutes later, I was ordering a French Dip Beef with swiss cheese, macaroni salad, homemade custard and a Diet Coke (burp). $12 or so for the entire thing; if I nixed the custard, it would have been under $10.
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Ah, what a healthy lunch!
Oh yeah, the whole reason why I came down to LA? I’ll have to cover that next time. I did have the fastest sashimi dinner ever and got from Little Tokyo to LAX in 29 minutes during the evening commute. So I accomplished something else besides satisfying my french dip craving…
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Three Los Angeles icons: free parking, Phillipe’s and an LAPD radio car
Phillipe the Original
1001 N. Alameda St
Los Angeles CA 90012
+1-213-628-3781
http://www.phillipes.com

How to spend a Sunday? Nope, not hungover…!

Sooo…I’ve got a friend who would like to visit the Delta. Got another with an SUV. Got a free Sunday with nothing major planned. So…time to move tables and bookshelves and kitchen appliances to the Delta. We’re all getting up and leaving The City early to avoid the traffic and the forecasted 91F (33C) high. Because of the “getting up early” part of this endeavor, I’m actually home at midnight. ON A SATURDAY! Sheesh.
On the plus side, since we’re going to be passing the Brentwood Costco, hopefully USDA Prime New York Steaks are in order! Since the “recession”, big shot steak houses haven’t been as busy as before. There’s lots of USDA Prime that hasn’t been picked up by steak houses and as a result, picked up by Costco, to be picked up by me! This IS a big deal if you like to eat real food. The WSJ even wrote about it back in July.
And once we get this fantastic meat, there’s only ONE way to prepare it. Some sea salt and freshly cracked pepper. And then…FIRE!
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This is the enviro way to fire up coals. No lighter fluid here!

SF North Beach Festival 2009

I made a brief visit to the North Beach Festival last Sunday.
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Washington Square all crowded
The North Beach Festival is one of the mainstays of San Francisco summer fair season where Washington Square and part of Grant Avenue is taken over by musicians, food, art and product vendors. The same vendors who are also at the Chestnut Street, Castro and Fillmore Street fairs, in case you missed them there. The North Beach Festival is different. Unlike the Chestnut Street Fair, you’re not confined to a corral if you wish to indulge in an adult beverage. Of course, maybe it was logistically impossible because of the density of the crowd. Problem is that when you have a crowd like this, this is what happens to your AT&T signal.
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Notice the upper left corner of my iPhone? It says “searching”. And that’s all.
Of course, it’s not all smug and maturity. It’s an opportunity for local merchants (who are hurting due to the City’s policies) to attract customers too.
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Why visit this place?
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Because of its creative advertising!