Author: rodney

One common thread in all the ryokan that I’ve stayed at over the past few years is that the smaller it is, the more it feels hospitable. I mean, big ryokan won’t collect you from the eki in a driving rainstorm. Small ones do.
My only problem (NOT a complaint) is that Matsumoto dun have enough low cost ryokan. Nonya Ryokan was the most affordable I could find through the booking engine I use and that was Y5000 for one night. Usually my lodging costs at MOST, Y4000/day. That’s a difference of Y1000. And includes wi-fi. Just something to keep in mind if you come up here to eat wasabi infused food or nearly bump your head on a low column in Matsumoto Jo. Y1000 is most of a meal here. Or two beers. Keeping that in mind, I got on a train with a bunch of other overprepared Japanese hikers equipped with backpacks, hats and ekiben and headed out to Hodaka, where Japan’s largest wasabi farm is. And a nature area with a bunch of trails for them to hike. Since I was underprepared, I went to the farm. Overprepared? Go commune with nature.
When I arrived at JR Hodaka eki, I saw very little in basi here. The tourist information bureau suggested that I rent a bicycle. Since much of the area here is flat (again!), it shouldn’t be a problem, if you ignore the searing heat and humidity.

The bike rental place, just outside of the Eki
Y200/hour for a bicycle? Whatta bargain! And they didn’t even take a deposit or make me prepay! The guy spoke english, drew out a path on the map and sent me on my way. I luuuuurve this part of Japan! The ride to the wasabi farm turned out to be one of the high points of the trip. It was very pretty and serene. And very green.

Once you clear the town area, this is what the next kilometer or two looks like.

The country air was nice and there weren’t too many cars on the road

This is the river you cross before you enter the farm.
14 minutes and one wrong turn later, I found the wasabi farm.

It was easy since the path was well marked. If you followed the map!

looks like something you’d see marking a winery
The first thing I noticed about this place was that there’s a lot of stuff to buy. And then there’s the wasabi. First you can have it in raw form.

I got yr wasabi, rrrrright here!
Or you can eat it in pickles, ice cream, soba, chocolate and most every kind of food you can infuse that eye tearing flavor into. I had the ice cream. The wasabi taste was there but subtle. The sweet cancelled out the harsh sting so all you had was a nice aftertaste, like a good cigar. *here ends my Anthony Bourdain moment*

This is how a wasabi ice cream stand looks like. It was more like a softie than hard pack ice cream.
The next thing I noticed was that there were a lot of kids here. With their parents. Much of the farm is actually well tended openspace with trails for hiking and strategically placed eateries for when you get hungry after hiking.

Here’s the map of the farm. In some ways, it reminds me of an amusement park

This is a strategically placed wasabi soba restaurant
There’s a place on the trail with great views, two temples and a place to soak your feet in the water that’s feeding the wasabi. It’s hella cold BTW. According to the brochure, it’s 12 degrees cold and that for good wasabi, the water needs to be hella cold while above, the plants need to be hella hot.

The wasabi is covered from direct sun while it’s irrigated by cold mountain water runoff.

It looks like a river of wasabi.

Soaking your tired tootsies in cold mountain water

MatsumoTooooooooooooo! MatsumoTooooooooooo!
That’s what greets you when you get off the tokkyu that brings you in from Nagano. A very happy welcome to Matsumoto, gateway town to the Japan Alps and close to one of the biggest wasabi farm/theme parks around and a big nature area that’s only accessible when the snow melts.
Matsumoto is a proper Japanese city. The center of town is where the eki is. There are loads of cabs and basi stops. And directly across the street is a McDonald’s. But not just any McD’s. This one is 24 hours and has some VERY nice talent after hours.
At a US McD’s, you get crackheads and bums after dark. No talent. None. At. All.
Nonya Ryokan is about 10 minutes away from JR Matsumoto-eki. The walk itself is pleasant since about half of the journey is on a pedestrianized street. And did I mention the talent?
Yup, I think I did.
Back to the Ryokan. It’s been open for close to 20 years and is family run. It has character. Dark wooden floors. My room is 6 jo, twice as big as the usual cubbyhole I stay at in Tokyo.

Now this is a big impressive room. Y5000/night and it could be yours too…
Did I mention it’s on the 3rd floor? *grunt* And the floors, even though they look gorgeous, squeak hella loud. This will become a problem later when I had to use the head at 0230. I swear, even with the most “stealthy like ninja” effort, the floorboards still hella squeaked.
“hey, the guy on the third floor is going to the head! Just thought you’d like to know, the rest of the building!!”
Anyway, after settling in and taking a shower AND a bath, I threw on some clothes and wandered around the town center. I found, in no specific order that Matsumoto has a kick ass castle, a clock museum, a nice developed riverfront area, a Muji, an obsession with frogs and no other late night places to eat (it was around 2230 when I was farting around outside) other than McD’s.

Matsumoto has a nicely preserved riverfront area

It reminds me of Kyoto’s riverfront area. Very nice.

Apparently, this froggie is on the local maps as a landmark. It’s across from a koban.
I also noticed a LOT of bicycles. Most of Matsumoto is flat (funny that, since they’re in the mountains) and there’s no subway (not big enough). So there are a lot of bicycles here. Turns out that certain buildings/establishments participate in a “free bicycle program”. You ask for the bike and fill out your particulars. They give you a key and tell you to bring it back before 1700 (when they close).
So tomorrow will be a day of wasabi farm, clocks and bicycles. And JR East as I head back to Tokyo to my waiting capsule.

Sidebar: So ALL of Asia is like Singapore in the summer, eh? Guess I deal better with cold than with hot humid heat…
I spent 18 hours in transit yesterday. First it was a 10 hour flight on SQ11 from LAX to NRT. Can I tell you I’m in luuurve with SQ all over again?
Even in steerage, I mean “economy”, I got 70+ movies ON DEMAND on my own vid screen, I couldn’t finish my meals, they fed us soooo much and I would have proposed to at least two of the Stewardesses on the spot if common sense and community property laws weren’t hovering around my head.
The flight left an hour late out of LAX but strangely enough, we made up the time enroute and landed NRT 15 minutes early. Glad that happened because even with fudge time, I was still on a tight clock because…
They redid Terminal 1 at Narita! The South wing is all new and is where all the Star Alliance airlines are at (I’ll write more about that when I fly on to SIN). I spent 20 minutes hunting for the Citibank ATM that used to be at arrivals after being misdirected. The person I asked probably presumed that I wanted to stay in the South Terminal when she told me to go up to 4th Floor departures.
I went up there. Got my cash. And won an American Express pen!
Then when I got back down to the arrivals floor and walked from South to North, I found my old trustworthy ATM, right where I left it. D’OH! *palmforeheadslap*
I got to the JR East ticket office with 6 minutes to spare (they close at 1900). Got my pass and my tickets. Even with all the delays and getting in early and losing the time I gained hunting for that bloody ATM, guess what? I still made my schedule! And JR being JR, all the trains arrived and departed on time.
Here’s how the schedule went:
NRT to Tokyo Station via N’Ex.
Tokyo to Utsunomiya via MAX Shinkansen
Utsunomiya to Nikko via JR Nikko Line.
Then, when I arrived at 2238 (on da nose, btw), it was raining Singapore style. That means, hot steamy heavy rain. Real rain.
I forgot, it’s August, ain’t it? Thought rainy season was done….
I had one night at the Narusawa Lodge booked.

This is OBVIOUSLY after the rain passed the next morning
Wada-San, one of the owners, came out to fetch me in her Mini Cooper in the driving rain. That was fortunate because Nikko shuts down after 1800 or so.

At that moment, the most comfortable room in the universe…
Tomorrow: Nikko.

I’m flying on SQ11 right now, somewhere over the Pacific. And liveblogging!
Seems that there’s Wi-Fi on this flight. And the deal’s not too bad either.
Check out the airlines that offer this progressive high tech service. Notice the conspicious lack of US carriers? It’s probably a good thing. If UA had this service, they’d probably restrict it to 1st/Bzness and charge three times as much.
Lunch just came out. Here’s what was for lunch:

Sauteed hanger steak with onions in mustard sauce, roasted veggies & gratinated potato
Cheese & crackers
Marinated Seafood Salad
Ice Cream (famous SQ Haagen-Daz cup)

Yes those are all my beverages. I believe in a liquid diet…
Not bad! You could either have this or the Japanese dish (since this is a flight bound for Tokyo Narita) which was wakadori sansho yaki. Will probably do the Japanese dinner.
More to come!

Maybe it’s that my standards have been raised too high by my travels to Asia or that SFO’s International Terminal is only a few years old, but…
LAX needs a new International Terminal PRONTO! Or at least a remodel. I’ve written about this before, but the lounges look like they’re part of a really boring office block in South Gate.

Yup. Glamourous. Sure.
And they’re pretty small too. Hella small. I’m on SQ and the Raffles Class lounge is actually a shared lounge with Qantas. The Silver Kris lounge at LAX is only for First Class. Bleah. On the plus side, there is FREE wi-fi.
SQ11 was delayed for about an hour. The ground staff did a great job in keeping everyone informed of the delay and as such, no stress. While I was waiting, I turned plane geek and took a bunch of photos. All the planes that land and take off from LAX pass by the Tom Bradley Terminal.

CX. Big nose.

CX leaving, my flight late!

MUJI has an airline??