Walking Ixus

November 29, 2003

Seoul Food and moments full of Seoul

Today was my first and only full day in Seoul. Besides breakfast, the one thing I wanted to do was to tour the DMZ.

The DMZ, despite being the most fortified border on Earth, where the nuclear tripwire is still in effect, is a tourist attraction.

There are tour groups that highlight Panmunjom, the village that straddles the border and where there is a line that dissects a building in half. That’s where they held the armistice talks. The two big tunnels that were dug by the North that can move thousands of fully armed troops from North to South without detection. Etc, etc.

Except that you need 24 hours notice to join a tour group, so that the US Army can do background checks and all that stuff.

So instead I saw the Changdeokgung Palace instead. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the few examples of “culture” on this trip.

Also went to a very nice kaiseki (I think) dinner. This was just the beginning of the meal. I think the table has a Kill Bill feel, dun you think?

These were appetizers. Then they were empty.

We all also drank a huge amount of sake, shochu and some Korean (ginseng?) wine. Wound up taking subway back. For 45 minutes.

Also, I was told that no visit to Seoul isn’t complete without running into these guys.

They were assembling at their staging area to return to barracks after a demonstration. Interesting…check out the face of the guy above as I snapped that pic.

November 28, 2003

The road to Seoul

IHN is a new airport, built 2 years ago. Very new, clean and nice.

Just wish that they built a rail link while they building the airport because you have to take a bus to town on a road that seems to go on and on and on.

No rail. Just a really long road that seems to go to nowhere. Then you hit Seoul and you know you’ve hit it because there’s a lot of traffic out.

We are staying in the Myung-Dong district. Kinda like the ROK version of Shibuya. I’ve already found the Citibank.

November 28, 2003

UA gotta have Seoul

I flew with Yumi to Seoul tonight.

We flew out on UA in Business Class. She said it was almost like when we first met except the seats are bigger and it’s a shorter flight.

The food was atrocious. Bad. Sushi plate looked like 2 day old maki from local 7-11.

The entertainment on the flight was non-existent. Three channels, one being the map, one being a special on the turkey and one with BBC America.

I think SQ really spoiled me…

November 28, 2003August 20, 2022

Travel Tools

This is all you need for a smooth trip…

Your JR ticket, an iPod and a brewski…

November 28, 2003August 20, 2022

Big Pink Dot

Kenzo Tange is a Japanese architect that has designed many buildings including the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Complex in Shinjuku.

He also designed the Yoyogi Stadium and Metropolitan Gym in Shibuya next door to NHK’s studios.

This stadium was the centerpiece of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics

What he DIDN’T design was that big pink dot that’s the mascot of the FIVB Volleyball Women’s World Cup tournament that was being hosted there.

That’s a big pink dot with eyes and huge hands. Can’t find its name online…

Dun get that dot confused with this pink dot…

November 28, 2003August 20, 2022

Lunch!

Ramen is practically a religion in Japan. And I’m a convert. I understand the obsession about finding the best ramen shop (while sampling many along the way). It’s truly a delicious quest for the best.

This is a picture of my favorite ramen shop in Shinjuku. I can’t tell you what street it’s on but I can point it out on a map or tell you where it is.

It’s across the street from a Citibank. How appropriate!

I made the Citibank comment because you will need cash at practically all of these shops

This was lunch today, from a famous ramen shop, Menya Musashi, on the other side of Shinjuku Station.

mmmmmmmm. And worth the 55 minute wait!

November 27, 2003August 20, 2022

Ghibli Museum

The first time I went to Japan, I wanted to visit the Ghibli Museum but didn’t have the time or tickets. You need to buy them in advance from JTB travel agencies in the states before you arrive in Japan.

Ghibli is a museum devoted to the works of Miyazaki Hayao. They don’t allow photos inside but they do allow pictures outside. This is the outside of the building. What’s that on the roof?

It’s me and the Gardener Robot (from Laputa, Castle in the Sky) on the roof

It even has its own buses to bring you there from the Mitaka JR Station. かわいい

Lots of young families and kids during the week

November 27, 2003August 20, 2022

Yamanote

It’s moving that fast when it pulls into the station because the trains are 15+ cars long

The last train of the night arrives at Shinagawa station and I’m there to start my journey back to Minami-Senju and sleep.

Funny thing though, all the other lines that start from a Yamanote stop will wait for the last Yamanote to arrive before it leaves.

It’s funny only because I live in San Francisco and MUNI never does this, ever.

November 26, 2003August 20, 2022

“Fuji-San”!

I’m on the Shinkansen heading back to Tokyo. Yea!

And to the New Koyo. No comment.

The train is about two hours into the journey. Suddenly around the bend looking out the left side of the train,

“Fuji-San! Fuji-San desu“!

Fuji is a notoriously shy mountain; it’s usually hidden behind cloud cover. But not today. Everyone in my car rushed to the windows, whipped open their phones and started taking pictures.