A belated Kyoto Station story

Note: Yeah, this happened when I was in Kyoto last November. It’s been a busy month!

After my long hike up and down 伏見稲荷大社 (Fushimi Inari Taisha), I stopped off at Kyoto Station (eki) to confirm my ticket to Tokyo the next day. On my way out, I wound up doing a double take when this girl who was having a smoke recognised me. Me? Who do I know in Kyoto?

Then it hit me. Moonwalker Bar! Last night! Red cardigan sweater! Why do I remember this trivial detail instead of “wow, whatta babe” or her name? Then it hit me again. I think I got into a slightly drunken debate with Yuki-chan about types of sweaters and she was wearing a red cardigan. Yuki-chan was wearing a black pullover. Yeah, that’s it. And that’s how she remembered me!

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Kyoto Station Bus Terminal where Yuki-chan spotted me

We wound up borrowing each other for a couple of hours, getting to know the other (and for me to practice non-existent language skills).

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I told her, あなた 和 美人 です
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and then she promptly started to giggle! (universal language) A lot!

And that was pretty much how our conversation went (in broken Japanese & English and a lot of laughing), until her long distance bus arrived to take her back to her college. And the reason why we guys don’t shoot from the hip when it comes to the opposite sex.

Now what was this (besides two months late)? Was it fate, coincidence, beauty or weirdness that makes a good travel story?  Who knows. I know that she’s studying painting and wants to one day open up an art gallery/cafe somewhere in Tokyo. Somehow I can imagine being in Daikanyama and talking about sweaters while having a doppio expresso crema when I see her again (purely by chance). Think I’ll get comped?  Only if I’m wearing a cardigan that day.

Party Train…?

I was at Omiya Station waiting to catch the Asama Shinkansen to Nagano a couple of Sundays back when I saw this sign.

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OK, my train will be here shortly

Nothing unusual, right? Just a couple of signs telling you when and what the next train will be at the platform. But look closer at the sign on the right side.

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I should take THIS train instead, right?

What is a “party” train?  Can someone explain, please? =P

memoirs of a hike

Remember this scene from Memoirs of a Geisha (AKA Sayuri in Japan)?

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Memoirs Of A Geisha 

In this picture, it looks very dramatic. And in real life, it’s dramatic as well. Fushimi Inari-taisha is the name of the temple in Kyoto that’s really a MOUNTAIN with paths covered in torii.

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This is the beginning. It’s all UPHILL from here…

If you can get over the fact that you’re climbing a MOUNTAIN, it’s really beautiful and it’s more torii then you’ll ever need to see for the rest of your life.

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Torii are engraved with the names of people or companies that sponsored them

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One of several rest stops on the way to the top.  

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This was pretty much the view for 2+ hours

Then when you get to the top, do you get a view or some kind of “you’re done, yay” sign? NO. You do get a shrine and a rest stop where the attendant, who doesn’t speak much English but must get this question a lot, said “is top”.

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I understand that this is a shrine and all, but is this IT? Yup…

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Hunting…

Geisha Spotting!!!

At least I think she’s a geisha (or geiko in Kyoto-Ben)

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So beautiful, so elegant…

So so HUNGRY??

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How does one slurp noodles lidat and not mess up the makeup?

It looked like they all were having fun eating.  Naturally!!

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Om nom nom

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Hey, you gonna eat that?

Moonwalker Bar in Kyoto (updated)

Drinking in Japan is the stuff of legend. Both for the fun and for the price (usually expensive). In Kyoto, there is a bar called the Moonwalker. It’s on the main drag along the canal next to a Harley themed bar. Entry is Y300 and drinks are Y200 apiece. They’re not watered down but they ARE half size. Regardless, you can drink a LOT and get smashed very quickly.

So here’s Momo and Yuki again. Fellow backpackers at the hostel who I wound up going to dinner and boozing with on my first night in Kyoto. Soon to be graduates of Uni in Tokyo, both of them have spent a year in English speaking countries (New Zealand and Canada) so their English is quite good. Also very fun to hang out with.

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Erm, too many drinks will do this to you…!

Besides cheap drinks, the Moonwalker has a small selection of snacks that we were comped since we ordered so many drinks. Like these bunny shaped buns. Bun buns? We had something else too but I forgot what else we ate.

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…cuz we ate lots of these bunnies!

Shortly after we arrived, a party of three came in and took the table next to us. Since they were “next to us”, for them to be seated meant that half of our table had to get up so they could squeeze inside. As a result, they became part of our merryment (along with the Aussies at the bar). Note the one in the red cardigan on the right. Unbeknownst to me, I was to see her again…fate perhaps?

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Hiya neighbours!

They had the same fascination with the drinks as we did. They did the Japanese thing. Whipped out their phones and took pictures of their drinks. As opposed to us Joe Gaijin that merely whipped out cameras.

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wish MY phone could do that…

More drunken merriment until our neighbours left and then we left the bar later on.


I can hold my breath for THIS long

Wheeee! Merryment!
And on the death march back to the hostel, we passed a LOT of combini. So naturally we heeded the siren’s call and got some refreshment. Mmmmm! Refreshment

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Nightcap!

WAHAHAHAH!

Dinner in Kyoto. Fun had by all!

After settling in at the hostel, the next order of business was finding a place to eat.
I do have priorities you know!

I went to the room next door and met two more backpackers who were also hungry. On the way out the door, we picked up one more for a total of four. Makes it easier to get a table.
We wound up in Kyoto’s Terimachi Arcade at a beer hall called Ichiba Coji. There’s also another location in the Kyoto Station building. Look at how this place is designed. Definitely does not scream “beer hall”. I thought it was a “Kyoto Cuisine” place.

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It’s a really nicely designed place
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It does say “Kyoto Dining” though instead of “Kyoto Cuisine”
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Very contemporary. And inbetween the bricks on the floor, there’s water and goldfish
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Wah! So nice! This is bar food??
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Yes, this is bar food

We also ordered some bibimbap and some grilled beef with sauce.

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Probably the nicest bar food I’ve ever had. Grilled beef with sauce.
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You figure out which dish this is

Naturally at the end of a good meal, it’s time for camwhoring.

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One is not from our hostel (the third one). She was our waitress and really nice!

I found out after the fact that they also have a “free flow drinks” option where you pay Y1200 and for 90 minutes, you get all the booze you can drink. I’m sure there’s SOME limits, but I would have liked to try that!

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Come on in!

Ichiba Coji
Terimachi Arcade, Bottom Floor
Kyoto


京都市中京区寺町錦上ル
ウイズユービル BF
TEL 075-252-2008

Memories of Miyajima

Miyajima, one of THE scenic spots in Japan is only 30 minutes away from JR Hiroshima by train and then 10 minutes away via ferry. For a scenic spot, it’s VERY easy to get to. Some of the best shots can be had on the ferry ride over.

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It was rainy and cloudy the first day

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The next day with blue sky and sea

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The floating torii at low tide

I actually made TWO trips to Miyajima. The first trip was made on a day that started rainy and continued to be rainy. The next day was sunny so I made land and visited the Itsukushima temple and the town.

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The entrance to the temple. Y300 please!

Much of the temple is actually on stilts so when it’s high tide, it looks like it’s floating, like the torii. Unfortunately, high tide is at 0740 and then gradually recedes.

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Low tide is so low you can walk to the torii.

The temple is a big part of the town. It draws the tourists in and is the symbol of Miyajima. Here’s some renditions from the local school.

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I like the second one. Verrrry abstract

Miyajima is also a town with several other temples and a main street that runs from the ferry terminal along the side of the island to the entrance of the temples. The town also runs into the hills.

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It’s a nice, beautiful town

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A wooden bridge that connects Itsukushima Temple to the shore

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Toyokuni Shrine with it’s Five Storied Pagoda

Miyajima is also known for the quality of their rice scoops. And on display in the center of town is the world’s largest rice scoop.

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How big is the rice cooker that goes with this??

There’s also some ryokan here. Next time I’ll spend the night and chill.

Bourdain’s Advice taken in Shinjuku

On the first episode of No Reservations titled “why the French don’t suck”, Anthony Bourdain devotes part of the show to the simple joy of sticking your head into the door of a strange restaurant and finding bliss.

Of course, as it is with all TV shows, this segment was scripted. However, it still made the point of leaving your culinary comfort zone to try and find new places that can eventually become old places (and a new part of your comfort zone) and then you can continue the search for new places. It never ends, unless they outlaw good tasting reasonably priced food (like they seem like they’re trying to do back home in SF, NYC and other places).

My first visit to Tokyo and my indoctrination into the ramen world took place a few years back at a small ramen shop off of Koshu-Kaido dori, across from a Citibank down the hill from the south exit of JR Shinjuku-eki. The place is still there and I’ve made my usual visit.

But the other night, I was hungry and decided to expand my horizons. I noticed a small shop across the way from one of the many small computer shops that populate this part of Shinjuku.

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There’s an a/v shop behind me!

It has the usual flags up, but none of them said “ramen” in katakana (which is the kana I can SORT OF read). Looking inside, there were lots of people and it LOOKED like a ramen place, but I wasn’t sure. So I continued to walk around, passing the mysterious place every 5 to 10 minutes, sneaking peeks through the wooden slats that cover the windows.

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When you see this from the other side, it’s intimidating

After 30 minutes of window shopping and indecision (and stomach grumbling), I walked in and took a seat and tried to figure out the elegant looking menu. Thankfully they had an english menu that was not as elegant looking and I was able to place an order for a bowl of shio ramen.

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irrashimasse!
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Well, it looks nice…too bad I can only read 6 characters!

After the beer and the water, comes the shio!

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This is the starter in ramen shops!
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Shio!!

It was a delicious broth, light and flavourful with just a touch of oil with the slices of toriniku and negi sitting majestically on the top with a sour plum.

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And guess what? The thin ramen noodles I lurrve! I hit a gold mine!

So now this is one of my “must go” places now. And they play real jazz inside!

Ramen Santouka Shinjuku Minamiguchi
1st Floor, Nakaoki Building
1-18-5, Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo